We left Valencia early yesterday morning (June 20) for the long bus ride to Granada, the last stronghold of the Moors deep in Andalusia. I was last here in 1986. It seemed much smaller then. Unlike our hotel in Valencia, our lodging was downtown, relatively close to some of the city´s points of interest.
We arrived during the afternoon at our hotel, Luna de Granada and immediately began to explore the city. Gary gave us his usual orientation and passed out maps. I went with Richard, Sonia, Kim and Steve to visit the cathedral and the royal chapel where some of Spain´s greatest monarchs are buried, including Los Reyes Católicos (the Catholic Kings) Isabel and Fernando. Just before we entered the cathedral, we approached some vendors who were selling a diverse selection of teas, spices and herbs. The kaleidescope of fragrances was intoxicating. I felt a strong urge to purchase something, but I knew I would not be able to pass it through US Customs because it was not packaged. All I could do was to take a picture of the moment.
We entered the cathedral, a massive gothic structure--very beautiful indeed. A choir sang a capella, and their lovely chanting added to the experience. The choir members were nowhere to be seen; I only heard the echoes of their voices gently caressing the interior of the church.
We then proceded to the Royal Chapel just around the corner. Unfortunately we couldn´t take photos. We saw the massive carved monuments to Los Reyes Católicos, then walked down a set of stairs to view their coffins. It was an eerie sight. Here I was -- standing before the remains of two individuals who played a pivotal role in Spain´s history. Sonia later remarked that Queen Isabel was her¨hero¨ because she was so ¨strong and ¨charismatic.¨
After our visit, it was time to go to dinner so we headed back to our hotel. We also needed to get ready to attend a flamenco perfomance featuring gypsies later in the evening. Dinner was a sumptuous buffet, a definite change of pace from the family style dinners we had been eating.
I went back to my room to change into a long black skirt and blouse. I was eagerly awaiting the performance which was to take place in the Albaicin, el barrio árabe not too far from the Alhambra which we would visit tomorrow. The neighborhood was picturesque to say the least with its white washed homes, winding cobblestone streets, intimate restaurants and cafés. In 1984, this quarter was declared a United Nations World Heritage Site. When I was here over 20 years ago, I couldn´t spend much time in this neighborhood. Since then, it has expanded and become a crown jewel for Granada.
The show was supposed to be authentic flamenco performed in a cave, but in reality it was done in a long narrow room referred to as a cava or cave. It was packed with tourists. I sensed this would not be the real thing as promised. The price of 35 Euros (almost $50 US) included transportation to/from the hotel a drink, a one hour show and a brief tour of the Albaicin area. In my opinion, it wasn´t worth the money. I thought the dancing and the flamenco guitar were contrived and shallow. I didn´t note even sincerity in the performers. The whole operation seemed like one big money-making machine. After seeing performances in Madrid at venues such as Casa Patas and El Corral de la Moriría, this one paled by comparison.
We returned a little after midnight. I would have stayed at the Albaicin, if there were places open. There was nothing around the hotel either. The situation reminded me of San Antonio where nearly everything shuts down at 10 pm, even on week-ends. I really didn´t feel like turning in, even though our wake-up call would strike at 6:15 am. After all, Gary said Granada was a ¨party town.¨ I also had to live up to my reputation as la callejera, someone who likes to roam the streets. (even though Denise still keeps calling me la callejona) Some of the younger travellers planned on going to a discoteque, but that´s not my scene anymore.
All I wanted to do was to have a nightcap. One of my other traveling companions, Sandra, who is here with her two daughters, also wanted to do the same. So we set off and we finally found a bar, humble as it was, that was still open. We sat outside. It took a while to get served and in fact, the owner, an older man with white hair and glasses, brought Sandra a sangria instead of the beer she ordered. As we were leaving, I remarked to the owner, who was very pleasant, that I was disappointed Granada shuts down so early and that his was the only place open. He replied,¨No es cierto señora. Hay un bar muy bueno a la esquina. Es de un amigo mío. Yo las llevo allí. (That´s not true ma ám. There´s a real good bar on the corner which belongs to a friend of mine. I´ll take you there.) So we went with him and entered. He told us he would probably meet us here with his wife after he closed up his bar for the night.
The bar had a modern flair with soft but colorful lighting. Brazilian music played in the background, As Sandra and I sat down at the bar, a young black man greeted us. In a cheerful voice, he welcomed us and recommended we order a beer with grenadine. He said, ¨Ya sé que esta combinación es medio rara, pero pruébala.¨ (I know the combination is a bit strange, but try it). We both decided to try it. When I saw he was about to open a Budweiser, I put my hands out in front and shouted¨No, no, no!¨ He immediately understood and opened a bottle of Alhambra, presumibly a local brew named after the famous Moorish palace which we would visit tomorrow. The beer concoction was actually quite pleasant -- sweet but refreshing. The bartender was from Sao Paulo, and moved to Sevilla two years ago. Tonight he was riding the success of his new place which he just opened two weeks ago. Even though it was after 1 am, the bar was fairly crowded. We had some tasty tapas with our beers. Then the young man put out dishes of gumdrops. They were small, soft and fruity and melted in my mouth. I found myself nimbling on them continuously.
Later, the owner from the previous bar and his wife came in. They were very glad to see us. We talked for quite awhile, engaged in pleasant conversation. By 2:30 am, Sandra and I remembered we would have a 6:30 am wake-up call. We had an 8:45 reservation at the Alhambra and punctuality was essential or else! The senior couple insisted we go on to what appeared to be a punk bar with them right next door, but we knew that would spell disaster because we might oversleep. It took some convincing to pry ourselves way; however, we didn´t want to appear rude. We told them about about our tour through Spain with our students, and one punker who overheard us said jokingly we were setting a bad example for them. The evening ended on a light note, and we returned to our hotel for the night.
The Alhambra
I was exhausted the next morning, but as usual, I got my second wind just thinking about the thrill of visiting the Alhambra again after 20 years. In the 13th century, Granada became the capital of Al-andalus, the last Moorish stronghold. The Moors constructed this majestic palace in a privileged location surrounded by mountains and woods, close enough to Grandada, but also far enough away so that the ruling sultans could protect themselves from unruly subjects.
When I last visited the Alhambra in 1986, the palace was in a state of disrepair, and the gardens were brown. Nonetheless, I still thought the site was beautiful because of the history and culture residing within its walls. This time I was absolutely stunned at the remarkable progress made in the Alhambra´s restoration. The walls gleamed and I could see virtually every detailed carving on them. Likewise for the Generalife or gardens which showed off their lush green vegetation and colorful, fragrant flowers. The cool, dry air, bright blue sky further enhanced the experience.
Our guide Nils met us at the entrance. I immediately took to his warm personality, He has an interesting background too. He was born and raised in Spain; his father is Swedish and a painter; his mother is French. I could sense his passion for the Alhambra and Moorish culture right away. I liked his approach because he conveyed major concepts and values behind this palace rather than boring us with meaningless details about its history. He recommended a book called The Alhambra by Oleg Grabar to learn more and I will purchase it.
We began our tour with the Generalife, a paradise which exudes an interior quietness and stimulates the senses. As we walked through the gardens I could smell roses, and other fragrant plants. The green cypress bushes, tall, thick and verdant served as a barrier to outside noise and heat. The air actually felt cooler here because when we left the palace the temperature was a bit warmer.
As we proceeded through the various sections of the palace, I was awestruck by its elegance and beauty and the panoramic views of Granada from it. Surprisingly, the walls are made of plaster; however, the masterful work of artisans who carved intricate designs in them centuries ago made them look like alabaster. According to Nils, many of the designs connected to repetitive patterns in mathematics and nature. Even though I had sensory overload, all was in perfect harmony -- I wasn´t even tired, even after the three-hour tour.
When we left the palace, Gary told us we had two hours of free time before leaving for our next destination. Some of us decided to catch up on our blogging. I wrote for awhile and then I went with Sonia for a bite to eat. Richard recommended a Middle Eastern place that does takeout around the corner. It was a cozy spot. We ordered from the owner, a Syrian who spoke very fluent Spanish and English. I ordered falafel--absolutely delectible and filling-- and ate it on the run to make the bus on time.
I was sad to leave Granada, a very walkable city with deep Islamic roots, exotic smells of herbs and spices, and a lovely climate. I will return -- algún día si Alá quiere.
Thursday, June 21, 2007
Valencia: Tradition and Modernity
We arrived here from Barcelona on June 19, but I haven´t been able to blog for awhile. I´m falling behind, but eventually I´ll catch up. I was last here in June, 2005. Our first stop was the museum complex of arts and sciences, an ultra-modern collection of buildings which has the 21st Century written all over it. We had no time to visit, only to take some photos and use the restrooms. The day was bright and sunny, unlike the weather i Barcelona which was cloudy with intermitent rain. A blue sky made for a lovely contrast next to the gleaming white buildings
We then proceeded to the center of town to get a brief orientation. While Valencia has strived to attract more tourism through its futuristic museum complex, there´s a lot of history here which includes a healthy dose of Moorish cultural influence as exhibited through some of the architecture and food. We didn´t have much time, so we had to prioritize. Denise, her family and I decided to go to the spectacular cathedral one of the many places which claims to hold the Holy Grail. It is indeed a towering structure. I felt so insignificant yet privileged to experience it. I saw a plethora of priceless artifacts and an altar of gold with beautiful paintings in the Renaissance style which depicted the life of Christ. The chapel´s azure ceiling with gold leaf caught my attention. We nade our way through the immense cathedral with the assistance of an audio tour which provided informative explanations. We finally entered the room of the Holy Grail.. The prized artifact was in the middle of an immense wall of intricately carved wooden panels which seemed to dwarf it.
After the cathedral visit, we proceded to the market which unfortunately was closed. We made a pit stop at McDonald´s to use the restrooms and get ice cream. I never frequent fast food joints as much as I have on this trip. They have come in handy. The hour to rendevous with our group came, so we headed for our bus. Our hotel, a Holiday Inn Express, was far from town and I felt it wasn´t worth it to come back. I really wanted to experience more of this delighful place. but the taxi ride would cost over $40 round trip. I needed to recharge my batteries anyway, so for once I turned in early after our dinner at a shopping mall within walking distance from our hotel. The meal was surprisingly good! Tomorrow it was on to Granada.
We then proceeded to the center of town to get a brief orientation. While Valencia has strived to attract more tourism through its futuristic museum complex, there´s a lot of history here which includes a healthy dose of Moorish cultural influence as exhibited through some of the architecture and food. We didn´t have much time, so we had to prioritize. Denise, her family and I decided to go to the spectacular cathedral one of the many places which claims to hold the Holy Grail. It is indeed a towering structure. I felt so insignificant yet privileged to experience it. I saw a plethora of priceless artifacts and an altar of gold with beautiful paintings in the Renaissance style which depicted the life of Christ. The chapel´s azure ceiling with gold leaf caught my attention. We nade our way through the immense cathedral with the assistance of an audio tour which provided informative explanations. We finally entered the room of the Holy Grail.. The prized artifact was in the middle of an immense wall of intricately carved wooden panels which seemed to dwarf it.
After the cathedral visit, we proceded to the market which unfortunately was closed. We made a pit stop at McDonald´s to use the restrooms and get ice cream. I never frequent fast food joints as much as I have on this trip. They have come in handy. The hour to rendevous with our group came, so we headed for our bus. Our hotel, a Holiday Inn Express, was far from town and I felt it wasn´t worth it to come back. I really wanted to experience more of this delighful place. but the taxi ride would cost over $40 round trip. I needed to recharge my batteries anyway, so for once I turned in early after our dinner at a shopping mall within walking distance from our hotel. The meal was surprisingly good! Tomorrow it was on to Granada.
Monday, June 18, 2007
No bull in Pamplona. Glad to Return to Barcelona!
Pamplona, a lovely town in the Navarre province is famous for the running of the bulls in July during the Fiestas de San Fermin. Here, brave and yes, perhaps even foolhardy young men, run through the streets ahead of them while they try desperately to avoid getting hitting hit. It´s a tranquil and pleasant enough place; however, during the bull run, the town swells with thousands of people, both spectators and runners, many of whom revel in the partying and thrill-seeking this event provides. It began to rain when our guide Gary took us to the street where the event takes place. There are no bulls here until another three weeks. I tried to imagine what the atmosphere might be like during the San Fermin celebration--the fierce bulls, the runners trying to dodge them, the bystanders screaming wildly, the utter chaos of it all.
Barcelona
We had some free time here, and then it was onward to Barcelona, a jewel of a city on the Mediterranean. It was going to be a long ride --about 700 kilometers. Most of us relaxed, slept and/or watched some DVD´S Gary brought. We made a couple of stops along the way, and we finally arrived around 8 pm. Much to our disappointment, our hotel was 17 kilometers from the city in an industrial zone. Luckily, there was a bus we could catch around the corner from the hotel. I couldn´t bear the thought of turning in early just because we were a bit far from the action. They don´t call me la callejera for nothing! Some of us decided to check out the city and hit the streets. About 10 pm Sonia, Richard, Valerie, Sandra, Shanelle, Steve and I caught the bus to Plaza Espana, then took the metro to Plaza Cataluyna where we would begin our walk down the world famous boulevard Las Ramblas. There were lots of folks still out and about, but since it was Sunday, the scene was more sedate. Also the Barcelona soccer team had just lost to Real Madrid, so people were not in a mood for celebration. As one bartender remarked later in the evening ¨Estamos de luto. (We´re in mourning)
We walked down Las Ramblas to the port which now sported an expansive boardwalk with some chic bars and restaurants. We hoped to have a drink by the water at one of them, but they were all closing up. Back on Las Ramblas we found a quiet place and ordered drinks and tapas. Richard and I split a bottle of vino tinto. I suggested we try a local wine because the region of Cataluyna produces some of the best in Spain. Our waiter brought us a bottle of Los Coroneos which was similar to a shiraz. We both thought it was an excellent choice. At about 130 am we decided to catch el buho (the owl bus) home and returned to Plaza Catalunya. Much to our surprise the driver took a convoluted route home and we didn´t get back until after 3 am. All in all though, I spent a very enjoyable evening with great company.
I first visited Barcelona in 1986 during my maiden trip to Europe and fell in love with it. I spent four magical days here, and was so happy to return. As I have walked the streets today and visited familiar sites, a flood of happy memories emerges from my mind.
More to come on Barcelona
Barcelona
We had some free time here, and then it was onward to Barcelona, a jewel of a city on the Mediterranean. It was going to be a long ride --about 700 kilometers. Most of us relaxed, slept and/or watched some DVD´S Gary brought. We made a couple of stops along the way, and we finally arrived around 8 pm. Much to our disappointment, our hotel was 17 kilometers from the city in an industrial zone. Luckily, there was a bus we could catch around the corner from the hotel. I couldn´t bear the thought of turning in early just because we were a bit far from the action. They don´t call me la callejera for nothing! Some of us decided to check out the city and hit the streets. About 10 pm Sonia, Richard, Valerie, Sandra, Shanelle, Steve and I caught the bus to Plaza Espana, then took the metro to Plaza Cataluyna where we would begin our walk down the world famous boulevard Las Ramblas. There were lots of folks still out and about, but since it was Sunday, the scene was more sedate. Also the Barcelona soccer team had just lost to Real Madrid, so people were not in a mood for celebration. As one bartender remarked later in the evening ¨Estamos de luto. (We´re in mourning)
We walked down Las Ramblas to the port which now sported an expansive boardwalk with some chic bars and restaurants. We hoped to have a drink by the water at one of them, but they were all closing up. Back on Las Ramblas we found a quiet place and ordered drinks and tapas. Richard and I split a bottle of vino tinto. I suggested we try a local wine because the region of Cataluyna produces some of the best in Spain. Our waiter brought us a bottle of Los Coroneos which was similar to a shiraz. We both thought it was an excellent choice. At about 130 am we decided to catch el buho (the owl bus) home and returned to Plaza Catalunya. Much to our surprise the driver took a convoluted route home and we didn´t get back until after 3 am. All in all though, I spent a very enjoyable evening with great company.
I first visited Barcelona in 1986 during my maiden trip to Europe and fell in love with it. I spent four magical days here, and was so happy to return. As I have walked the streets today and visited familiar sites, a flood of happy memories emerges from my mind.
More to come on Barcelona
Saturday, June 16, 2007
Burgos, Bilbao, San Sebastian -- It just keeps getting better!
Burgos is the birth and burial place of El Cid and home of the famous cathedral whose construction began in 1221. I was really expecting an austere town with arid surroundings. To my surprise it was verdant, complete with the Rio Duero flowing through it. Unfortunately it rained heavily which caught me off guard since I didn´t bring my raincoat. Our guide Carlota met us when we arrived and took us to La Cartuja, a Cartesian monestary on the outskirts of town. In fact, it was recently the subject of a documentary film called The Long Silence which illuistrates the life of the monks there who live their lives in silence as they go about their daily rituals. I heard about this film before the trip, but didn´t pay it any mind because there is no soundtrack. Now that I have visited the monastery, I will definitely see it when the DVD becomes available. I purchased a lovely rosary which has beads made from rose petals -- more than 3,000 for each necklace; the fragrance is absolutely intoxicating. Carlota took us through the monastery´s chapel with its immense golden altar. Carlota told us Columbus brought the gold from Latin America. It is truly a magnificent piece of work because of the intricate figures it contains of Christ and his disciples. After the monestary, we proceeded to the cathedral. I wondered, how could the inside of this church be any more spectacular than the monestary´s chapel? I was indeed mistaken. The cathedral was over the top!! The altar was even larger, and there were more treasures throughout the building. Carlota took us through room after room and carefully explained the contents, including the tomb of El Cid, one of the heroes of the Reconquest. Burgos part of one of the oriinal Christian kingdoms
The outside of the church is no less than spectacular with its gótico florecido style and ornate facade.
More to come on Burgos
Bilbao, Bilbao -- Como te has camibiao!!
Bilbao, a port further to the north in the Basque country has a new look. It has shed its industrial ambience for one that beckons tourism and culture. This was my first visit, and I must admit I was stunned by the city´s beauty. A lovely river walkway meanders throughout the center of the city. On both sides, old yet handsome stone buildings stand tall and stately. As recently as ten years ago, the city held little attraction for tourists and natives alike. The municipal government deserves much credit in doing a yeoman´s job in urban planning to make the city more pedestrian friendly and livable. An abundance of greenery and parks and a major facelift of the old city - el casco viejo - helped to make that a reality. San Antonio´s city council should take some cues from Bilbao.
More to come !
San Sebastian beginning to look like French Rivera
This lovely city on the Cantabrian Sea, has blown me away. It is indeed a jewel with its pristine beaches, old world style and even its own film festival which could one day rival the hoopla at Cannes. One the way to town, we had a brief discussion of liberal Spain in our text, and then met our guide Eduardo when we arrived. Upon meeting him, I pegged him as a superestrella of a guide. He was knowledgeable, charming, engaging and absolutely hilarious. He took us on a three hour walking tour of his beautifull city telling us amusing anectdotes all along the way while offering a list of do´s and don´ts during our brief stay. He has a lovely accent when speaking English, too. After our tour, we asked to stay longer here since our hotel was so far away, so instead of meeting at 5 :30 pm to return, we´re met up at 7:30 pm, our request was granted. Before Denise and I could get our students together for our internet blogging session, they had scattered. Several also did not know the bus would be leaving two hours later.
I decided to go off on my own to see the Royal Summer Palace Eduardo talked about, but unfortunately it was not open. I walked back towards the old city to call home since I hadn´t phoned for several days -- then I would be able to relax. As I strolled onto Calle Porto, I looked for a locutorio, where I could call the States, and I found one. Then suddenly, I heard people singing joyfully in the streets just a block up. I went to see what it was all about. I saw dozens of folks with song lyrics in their hands; they sang beautifully in key. When I asked about the singing, a woman told me this occurs the third Saturday of the month. Although they sang in their native Basque, I saw that everyone knew this from memory. It was evident the song was part of a common heritage and it sounded like a protest hymn. Briefly, it has to do with the Basque separation from the rest of Spain as they have always wanted since the beginning of Spain´s history. I reflected upon the spontaneity of this moment
I went to the locutorio to call home then checked out the Bar Aralar two doors down. I saw throngs of patrons eating, drinking and chattering, but what really caught my eye were the pinchos or appetizers Eduardo talked about. He highly recommended them and told us about the etiquette in ordering them. Bartenders put out dozens of trays filled with these delectible treats. I first ordered a locally brewed beer, Pagoa which had a wheaty nutlike taste -- muy sabrosa! I had a few sips, then decided to order some appetizers while keeping in mind how Eduardo told us to order. Ask the bartender for a plate; pick some out; show the plate to him and then pay. The selection was mesmerizing -- at least 20 different kinds, so colorful and adroitly stacked on the large serving plates. How I wished I could have sampled them all! My eyes were bigger than my stomach. I ordered pastry stuffed with salmon, a miniature baguette with tortilla española and sauteed green pepper, artichokes en vinaigrette, and roasted red pepper stuffed with tuna. I thought...voy a repetir la cerveza; esa me gusta. So I ordered another; then I saw the pastel de verduras and showed the bartender. The cost for the two beers and five pinchos was 15 euros or about $21 US ,but the eating experience, as those Mastercard advertisements state.....priceless and also inolvidable!
More to come on San Sebastian!
The outside of the church is no less than spectacular with its gótico florecido style and ornate facade.
More to come on Burgos
Bilbao, Bilbao -- Como te has camibiao!!
Bilbao, a port further to the north in the Basque country has a new look. It has shed its industrial ambience for one that beckons tourism and culture. This was my first visit, and I must admit I was stunned by the city´s beauty. A lovely river walkway meanders throughout the center of the city. On both sides, old yet handsome stone buildings stand tall and stately. As recently as ten years ago, the city held little attraction for tourists and natives alike. The municipal government deserves much credit in doing a yeoman´s job in urban planning to make the city more pedestrian friendly and livable. An abundance of greenery and parks and a major facelift of the old city - el casco viejo - helped to make that a reality. San Antonio´s city council should take some cues from Bilbao.
More to come !
San Sebastian beginning to look like French Rivera
This lovely city on the Cantabrian Sea, has blown me away. It is indeed a jewel with its pristine beaches, old world style and even its own film festival which could one day rival the hoopla at Cannes. One the way to town, we had a brief discussion of liberal Spain in our text, and then met our guide Eduardo when we arrived. Upon meeting him, I pegged him as a superestrella of a guide. He was knowledgeable, charming, engaging and absolutely hilarious. He took us on a three hour walking tour of his beautifull city telling us amusing anectdotes all along the way while offering a list of do´s and don´ts during our brief stay. He has a lovely accent when speaking English, too. After our tour, we asked to stay longer here since our hotel was so far away, so instead of meeting at 5 :30 pm to return, we´re met up at 7:30 pm, our request was granted. Before Denise and I could get our students together for our internet blogging session, they had scattered. Several also did not know the bus would be leaving two hours later.
I decided to go off on my own to see the Royal Summer Palace Eduardo talked about, but unfortunately it was not open. I walked back towards the old city to call home since I hadn´t phoned for several days -- then I would be able to relax. As I strolled onto Calle Porto, I looked for a locutorio, where I could call the States, and I found one. Then suddenly, I heard people singing joyfully in the streets just a block up. I went to see what it was all about. I saw dozens of folks with song lyrics in their hands; they sang beautifully in key. When I asked about the singing, a woman told me this occurs the third Saturday of the month. Although they sang in their native Basque, I saw that everyone knew this from memory. It was evident the song was part of a common heritage and it sounded like a protest hymn. Briefly, it has to do with the Basque separation from the rest of Spain as they have always wanted since the beginning of Spain´s history. I reflected upon the spontaneity of this moment
I went to the locutorio to call home then checked out the Bar Aralar two doors down. I saw throngs of patrons eating, drinking and chattering, but what really caught my eye were the pinchos or appetizers Eduardo talked about. He highly recommended them and told us about the etiquette in ordering them. Bartenders put out dozens of trays filled with these delectible treats. I first ordered a locally brewed beer, Pagoa which had a wheaty nutlike taste -- muy sabrosa! I had a few sips, then decided to order some appetizers while keeping in mind how Eduardo told us to order. Ask the bartender for a plate; pick some out; show the plate to him and then pay. The selection was mesmerizing -- at least 20 different kinds, so colorful and adroitly stacked on the large serving plates. How I wished I could have sampled them all! My eyes were bigger than my stomach. I ordered pastry stuffed with salmon, a miniature baguette with tortilla española and sauteed green pepper, artichokes en vinaigrette, and roasted red pepper stuffed with tuna. I thought...voy a repetir la cerveza; esa me gusta. So I ordered another; then I saw the pastel de verduras and showed the bartender. The cost for the two beers and five pinchos was 15 euros or about $21 US ,but the eating experience, as those Mastercard advertisements state.....priceless and also inolvidable!
More to come on San Sebastian!
Wednesday, June 13, 2007
Walking Old Madrid
After a sumptuous breakfast at the hotel, we went to El Prado by subway. It´s an imposing and even overwhelming museum especially one´s first visit. I enjoyed viewing the works of Goya, El Greco, Velasquez and others; I likened it to visiting old friends. Then I visited another -- El Parque del Buen Retiro, a lovely green, tranquil park with fountains, palaces, statues, and a pond. It is a refuge por excelencia from the hustle and bustle of Madrid, something like what Central Park is to New York City. Even though it was a weekday, many locals and visitors reveled in the park´s beauty. They relaxed in the grass, rowed in the pond, snacked at the many food stands dispersed throughout the park, read their favorite book, or just plain pondered.
I heard about a show at the Bibilioteca Naciional called Ecuador: Tradition and Modernity. I walked several blocks and arrived just in time to take in a public reception; then I went in. The exhibit featured items belonging to prehisipanic cultures from the Ecuadorian Amazon, treasures from the colonial period and artwork from the Ecuador´s contemporary society. Since Spain is la madre patria of Latin America, Spaniards take great interest in learning about the Latin American connection because there is a common heritage shared proudly.
I decided to take a coffee break and headed for El Cafe Gijón,a famous spot where the great literary figures and intellectuals of Madrid would gather. There were a lot of people even though it was late in the afternoon, so I sat at the bar trying to soak it all in.
My next stop was El Circulo de Bellas Artes, one of Madrid´s finest cultural centers. When I lived here in 2005, I came here many times to attend cultural events. I saw film, attended concerts and just simply hung out at the lovely cafe. I had so many wonderful memories, particularly of the exciting Noches Barbaras featuring street musicians, that I had to return.
From the cultural center I walked up Gran Vía, one of Madrid´s bustling shopping districts, then cut over to Puerta del Sol and down to Plaza Mayor, the huge imposing historical square built by the Hapsburgs. I had to return to Puerta del Sol at the Zero Kilometer landmark to meet our group for dinner.
As we were congregating, I asked our students if they were up to attending a flamenco dance performance. I had 12 interested customers. To leave Spain without seeing a credible flamenco performance would render one´s visit incomplete. This art form is the one of the hallmarks of Spanish culture with profound roots in Moorish civilization. It is full of fire and passion. I suggested one of best venues I have experienced, Casa Patas, a small intimate place off of Calle Atocha and within walking distance from our restaurant. Most of my companions thought the cover charge of 28 euros (about $40 US) was a bit pricy; however, after seeing the show, they said it was worth every penny. It was a thrilling experience for them. The show featured two outstanding dancers. The first was a handsome young man with a a jubilant but intense facial expression. His dancing was masterful. A lovely woman joined him who was just as intense. Their personal chemistry sizzled on the stage. The musicians accompanying them were just as engaging. Incidentally, we had a resident expert with us, Valerie Chavarria, a flamenco dancer herself, and a student with the PAC Spain Program in 2005. When she participated in the program that year she took classes. The show passed muster with her; in fact, Valerie thought this performance was better than the one she attend two years ago.
We left immediately after to catch the subway back to our hotel. Our wake-up call would be early - 6:30 am - for an 8:30 am departure for Burgos.! Onward to the north!
I heard about a show at the Bibilioteca Naciional called Ecuador: Tradition and Modernity. I walked several blocks and arrived just in time to take in a public reception; then I went in. The exhibit featured items belonging to prehisipanic cultures from the Ecuadorian Amazon, treasures from the colonial period and artwork from the Ecuador´s contemporary society. Since Spain is la madre patria of Latin America, Spaniards take great interest in learning about the Latin American connection because there is a common heritage shared proudly.
I decided to take a coffee break and headed for El Cafe Gijón,a famous spot where the great literary figures and intellectuals of Madrid would gather. There were a lot of people even though it was late in the afternoon, so I sat at the bar trying to soak it all in.
My next stop was El Circulo de Bellas Artes, one of Madrid´s finest cultural centers. When I lived here in 2005, I came here many times to attend cultural events. I saw film, attended concerts and just simply hung out at the lovely cafe. I had so many wonderful memories, particularly of the exciting Noches Barbaras featuring street musicians, that I had to return.
From the cultural center I walked up Gran Vía, one of Madrid´s bustling shopping districts, then cut over to Puerta del Sol and down to Plaza Mayor, the huge imposing historical square built by the Hapsburgs. I had to return to Puerta del Sol at the Zero Kilometer landmark to meet our group for dinner.
As we were congregating, I asked our students if they were up to attending a flamenco dance performance. I had 12 interested customers. To leave Spain without seeing a credible flamenco performance would render one´s visit incomplete. This art form is the one of the hallmarks of Spanish culture with profound roots in Moorish civilization. It is full of fire and passion. I suggested one of best venues I have experienced, Casa Patas, a small intimate place off of Calle Atocha and within walking distance from our restaurant. Most of my companions thought the cover charge of 28 euros (about $40 US) was a bit pricy; however, after seeing the show, they said it was worth every penny. It was a thrilling experience for them. The show featured two outstanding dancers. The first was a handsome young man with a a jubilant but intense facial expression. His dancing was masterful. A lovely woman joined him who was just as intense. Their personal chemistry sizzled on the stage. The musicians accompanying them were just as engaging. Incidentally, we had a resident expert with us, Valerie Chavarria, a flamenco dancer herself, and a student with the PAC Spain Program in 2005. When she participated in the program that year she took classes. The show passed muster with her; in fact, Valerie thought this performance was better than the one she attend two years ago.
We left immediately after to catch the subway back to our hotel. Our wake-up call would be early - 6:30 am - for an 8:30 am departure for Burgos.! Onward to the north!
The End of My First Day In Madrid
Our group returned with Gary to the hotel, but I decided to stay and keep blogging so I could catch up. I just couldn´t bear the thought of going back to my room so early -- nunca en Madrid! I then proceded to España Cañí, a little bar above Puerta Del Sol. The concept of cañí is a community of friends or comrades. Here´s a link to a picture I took of the facade.
http://www.accd.edu/pac/lrc/madrid2004/vi14.jpg
After a beer I walked a few blocks to Cafe Populart, a marvelous place to listen to jazz and blues. Here´s a link to the website. http://www.populart.es/.
The venue has never disappointed me and last night was no exception! I heard a talented cuartet who performed straight ahead jazz. I especially enjoyed the pianist who exhibited many moods. He played with such an edge and velocity at times while in other pieces he conveyed a rather poignant and soulful side. After the first set I decided to to return to the hotel which was a straight shot on Line 1 to Chamartin. I turned in about 1:30 am.
http://www.accd.edu/pac/lrc/madrid2004/vi14.jpg
After a beer I walked a few blocks to Cafe Populart, a marvelous place to listen to jazz and blues. Here´s a link to the website. http://www.populart.es/.
The venue has never disappointed me and last night was no exception! I heard a talented cuartet who performed straight ahead jazz. I especially enjoyed the pianist who exhibited many moods. He played with such an edge and velocity at times while in other pieces he conveyed a rather poignant and soulful side. After the first set I decided to to return to the hotel which was a straight shot on Line 1 to Chamartin. I turned in about 1:30 am.
Tuesday, June 12, 2007
Ya llegamos ! We´re finally here!
I haven´t been able to access my blog from home which I believe is due to a firewall problem, but here I am blogging away in Madrid. Last week Denise and I conducted class with our students at Palo Alto which was a combination of a reporters´ bootcamp and an orientation of basic geography and early history of Spain. Denise really likes the text I assigned for the Humanities class, The Story of Spain, by Mark Williams. Kudos to her also for assigning the Art of Creative Non-Fiction and providing a fabulous seminar about the essence of effective writing. I believe she has prepared our students to write a decent feature story on a subject that has somehow piqued their curiosity.
We left San Antonio yesterday morning with anticipation and excitement in our hearts as we embarked on our long journey. I still needed some badly needed rest because I hadn´t slept a wink the night before, and I felt really groggy. After a two-hour delay on the runway in Newark, we were finally cleared for takeoff to Madrid. I slept most of the way. For me, the flight went went quickly, and before I knew it I was here in Madrid!
I thought about what it would be like to return to Madrid a fourth time. I reminisced about my old hangouts --Calle 54, Cafe Populart, Cafe Central, Casa Patas, as well as the great cultural institutions -- El Prado, Thyssien, Reina Sofia, Teatro Real (where I saw a performance of Carmina Burana) Teatro Español, Círculo de Bellas Artes. Madrid is such a sumptuous city with a joie de vivre. The streets are teeming with people even until very late. Ever since my return in 2004 as a faculty member in the PAC study abroad program, Madrid has gotten under my skin because it is so alive and offers such a stimulating and diverse cultural scene. Madrid está en la onda!
We finally arrived in Madrid and met our guide, Gary, who is a young español of Cuban-American heritage. We had to wait for Denise´s and Sarah´s luggage to come on the next flight; then we left to go to our hotel in the Chamartin area of Madrid. We had a little down time before we visited the Royal Palace constructed by Felipe V, the first king of the the Bourbon dynasty here. We then briefly stopped at the monument to Don Quixote in the Plaza España and Puerto del Sol where we had dinner at El Museo del Vino. The students are quite happy to be here, and I´m excited for them. It´s going on 11 pm, but the night is still young for me. I think I´ll stop by Cafe Populart tonight before heading back!
We left San Antonio yesterday morning with anticipation and excitement in our hearts as we embarked on our long journey. I still needed some badly needed rest because I hadn´t slept a wink the night before, and I felt really groggy. After a two-hour delay on the runway in Newark, we were finally cleared for takeoff to Madrid. I slept most of the way. For me, the flight went went quickly, and before I knew it I was here in Madrid!
I thought about what it would be like to return to Madrid a fourth time. I reminisced about my old hangouts --Calle 54, Cafe Populart, Cafe Central, Casa Patas, as well as the great cultural institutions -- El Prado, Thyssien, Reina Sofia, Teatro Real (where I saw a performance of Carmina Burana) Teatro Español, Círculo de Bellas Artes. Madrid is such a sumptuous city with a joie de vivre. The streets are teeming with people even until very late. Ever since my return in 2004 as a faculty member in the PAC study abroad program, Madrid has gotten under my skin because it is so alive and offers such a stimulating and diverse cultural scene. Madrid está en la onda!
We finally arrived in Madrid and met our guide, Gary, who is a young español of Cuban-American heritage. We had to wait for Denise´s and Sarah´s luggage to come on the next flight; then we left to go to our hotel in the Chamartin area of Madrid. We had a little down time before we visited the Royal Palace constructed by Felipe V, the first king of the the Bourbon dynasty here. We then briefly stopped at the monument to Don Quixote in the Plaza España and Puerto del Sol where we had dinner at El Museo del Vino. The students are quite happy to be here, and I´m excited for them. It´s going on 11 pm, but the night is still young for me. I think I´ll stop by Cafe Populart tonight before heading back!
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