Walking Old Madrid

After a sumptuous breakfast at the hotel, we went to El Prado by subway. It´s an imposing and even overwhelming museum especially one´s first visit. I enjoyed viewing the works of Goya, El Greco, Velasquez and others; I likened it to visiting old friends. Then I visited another -- El Parque del Buen Retiro, a lovely green, tranquil park with fountains, palaces, statues, and a pond. It is a refuge por excelencia from the hustle and bustle of Madrid, something like what Central Park is to New York City. Even though it was a weekday, many locals and visitors reveled in the park´s beauty. They relaxed in the grass, rowed in the pond, snacked at the many food stands dispersed throughout the park, read their favorite book, or just plain pondered.

I heard about a show at the Bibilioteca Naciional called Ecuador: Tradition and Modernity. I walked several blocks and arrived just in time to take in a public reception; then I went in. The exhibit featured items belonging to prehisipanic cultures from the Ecuadorian Amazon, treasures from the colonial period and artwork from the Ecuador´s contemporary society. Since Spain is la madre patria of Latin America, Spaniards take great interest in learning about the Latin American connection because there is a common heritage shared proudly.

I decided to take a coffee break and headed for El Cafe Gijón,a famous spot where the great literary figures and intellectuals of Madrid would gather. There were a lot of people even though it was late in the afternoon, so I sat at the bar trying to soak it all in.

My next stop was El Circulo de Bellas Artes, one of Madrid´s finest cultural centers. When I lived here in 2005, I came here many times to attend cultural events. I saw film, attended concerts and just simply hung out at the lovely cafe. I had so many wonderful memories, particularly of the exciting Noches Barbaras featuring street musicians, that I had to return.

From the cultural center I walked up Gran Vía, one of Madrid´s bustling shopping districts, then cut over to Puerta del Sol and down to Plaza Mayor, the huge imposing historical square built by the Hapsburgs. I had to return to Puerta del Sol at the Zero Kilometer landmark to meet our group for dinner.

As we were congregating, I asked our students if they were up to attending a flamenco dance performance. I had 12 interested customers. To leave Spain without seeing a credible flamenco performance would render one´s visit incomplete. This art form is the one of the hallmarks of Spanish culture with profound roots in Moorish civilization. It is full of fire and passion. I suggested one of best venues I have experienced, Casa Patas, a small intimate place off of Calle Atocha and within walking distance from our restaurant. Most of my companions thought the cover charge of 28 euros (about $40 US) was a bit pricy; however, after seeing the show, they said it was worth every penny. It was a thrilling experience for them. The show featured two outstanding dancers. The first was a handsome young man with a a jubilant but intense facial expression. His dancing was masterful. A lovely woman joined him who was just as intense. Their personal chemistry sizzled on the stage. The musicians accompanying them were just as engaging. Incidentally, we had a resident expert with us, Valerie Chavarria, a flamenco dancer herself, and a student with the PAC Spain Program in 2005. When she participated in the program that year she took classes. The show passed muster with her; in fact, Valerie thought this performance was better than the one she attend two years ago.

We left immediately after to catch the subway back to our hotel. Our wake-up call would be early - 6:30 am - for an 8:30 am departure for Burgos.! Onward to the north!

The End of My First Day In Madrid

Our group returned with Gary to the hotel, but I decided to stay and keep blogging so I could catch up. I just couldn´t bear the thought of going back to my room so early -- nunca en Madrid! I then proceded to España Cañí, a little bar above Puerta Del Sol. The concept of cañí is a community of friends or comrades. Here´s a link to a picture I took of the facade.
http://www.accd.edu/pac/lrc/madrid2004/vi14.jpg

After a beer I walked a few blocks to Cafe Populart, a marvelous place to listen to jazz and blues. Here´s a link to the website. http://www.populart.es/.
The venue has never disappointed me and last night was no exception! I heard a talented cuartet who performed straight ahead jazz. I especially enjoyed the pianist who exhibited many moods. He played with such an edge and velocity at times while in other pieces he conveyed a rather poignant and soulful side. After the first set I decided to to return to the hotel which was a straight shot on Line 1 to Chamartin. I turned in about 1:30 am.