Life is a Beach - Well, Not Really

After leaving Granada on June 21, we headed for Torremolinos, a resort near Malaga on the Costa del Sol. Malaga has greater fame, but it´s much more expensive. We actually stayed in the town next to Torremolinos. I heard some rather negative comments about the area, and wasn´t exactly looking forward to coming here; I would have rather remained in Granada. Nonetheless I can understand why the students were so excited about spending some time here. They all wanted to dive into the Mediterranean of course, but they also relished having some free time and just chill --tranquilo no más! No wake-up calls, no schedule -- beach bums for a day!

Our hotel, which was on the ratty side in every way, was up a steep hill, but not far from the beach. The beach was attractive and clean, the water a deep azure blue. The main drag bustled with activity. Tourists could choose from a variety of restaurants ( I spotted several Indian places) bars, cafes. They could shop at small superettes and souvenir shops. I heard many different languages, too from Japanese to German. Lots of tourists from England and Ireland come to kick up their heels, too



As soon as we arrived, some students and I dashed for an internet cafe to blog. We walked for two miles and finally came across one. Later on, we learned the internet was much closer, just a few blocks -- oh well -- the exercise can´t hurt. I blogged and missed dinner, but from what I heard didn´t miss much.



Denise and I had a drink together in the noisy hotel bar with annoying music in the background. We talked about how much we´ve enjoyed teaching together during this tour as well as our next road show (oops, sorry I mean study tour) -- get this-- INDIA! We have both always wanted to visit this incredibly fascinating place. The plan is to go in 2010 and we´ll have plenty of time to research, plan and promote it. I´m really excited !!



Early in the trip Kim Corbin told me about a place called Ronda which is near here. She asked me if I wanted to go with her. It was a small medieval town deep in the sierra with spectacular views of a gorge. I didn´t want to just lay out there on the beach and perhaps get burned, so I gladly accepted. Getting there however was a comedy of errors. We couldn´t find out about the bus schedule until the next morning. Laura, the hotel clerk, said she would call for us then. We found out the bus was leaving at 10:20 frrom Torremolinos which meant we had to get a taxi to the station to save time. We had less than an hour, but we thought we could make it. Laura called us a taxi. When we arrived out front two ladies jumped right in the car como si fuera nada (as if it were nothing). I was really angry, but the taxista called us another cab, and it came right away. We told the driver our destination and when the bus was leaving. Her reply, ¨Impossible! No les alcanza el tiempo por el tráfico.¨ (Impossible! You won't get there in time because of the traffic) We were already a few blocks from the hotel, and we were trying to decide what to do. I thought it would be better to just go and catch the next bus at 12:50 even though we'd arrive early, but Kim didn´t want to and opted to spend some time at the beach to kill time. In the meantime, the meter is running; we head back. The fare for just around the block was 4.5 Euros.



I stayed, too. She went up to change; I waited for her and then we walked to the beach. I left to find an ATM machine and said I'd return in 15 minutes. I couldn't find one and when I did, it didn't work. In the meantime I decided to return to the beach to find Kim, but she was gone, and I figured she must have returned to the hotel because I was very late. When I trudged up the hill and into the hotel, there she was waiting for me ready to go.



Laura called us another cab and we were on our way with plenty of time to spare. The cab driver asked us which station we wanted in Torremolinos, but we didn´t know there were two. I told him we wanted to go to Ronda and I asked him if he knew which station, but he didn't. We stopped at one station, and I asked him to wait in case we had to go to the other. I dashed in to inquire, meanwhile the meter is running. This station was the one and I motioned to Kim to come with me. The price is 15 Euros - very expensive since the other driver would have only charged us nine. But since he had to park and wait, that jacked up the price. I do believe nos vio la cara. We got there 30 minutes minutes early, bought our tickets and just engaged in pleasant conversation with each other. It was already time, I and was afraid that the bus had come and gone. I asked at the ticket window, and all was well. The clock advanced however, and still no bus. Then we heard that it would arrive late because of heavy traffic in Malaga. More time lost. The woman in the ticket office said the trip would take at least 2.5 hours; Kim thought we would get there within 1.5. I was hoping for something in the middle.



Hallelujia! The bus finally came at 1:20. As we proceeded along the coast passing through Malaga, Marbella and other beach towns however, we encountered traffic at every turn. ¨By the time we arrive it will be time to return,¨ I complained to Kim. After traveling over an hour on clogged roads we finally broke out of a holding pattern and headed for the hills--literally! Within minutes we could already see an expansive view of the countryside. I was surprised to see a sign indicating that Sevilla, our next stop on the tour, was only 120 kilometers away. I said to Kim, ¨Hey, we might as well spend the night in Ronda and have the group take our stuff and we´'ll see ya' in Sevilla! By around 4 p.m. we had arrived at our destination -- Ronda ciudad sonada. We had exactly four hours to enjoy the city.



Ronda is one of the most spectacular cities in Andalucia. It is divided in two -a vibrant newer section full of restaurants and fine shops and el casco viejo or the historical core which interested us more. From the start we experienced incredible scenery including a huge gorge called El Tajo. It is over 130 meters high with the beautiful Guadalquivir River running through it. An 18th century bridge connects the old and new sections with whitewashed houses hanging precariously on either side of it. Orson Wells and Ernest Hemmingway both lived here for a time and have written about this beautiful place.



We were both hungry and looked for a restarurant which would provide us with a view. After a couple of tries, we finally found one called La Duquesa de Parcent which looked pricy, but the balcony overlooked the gorge, so we splurged. The menu del dia was only 15 euros not including beverages. We had a leisurely three-course lunch while we drank in the spectacular countryside. We must have been there for almost an hour and a half. We walked around the rest of this charming, picturesque town enjoying its medieval architecture, winding streets and lush green parks. We did a little shopping so we could purchase a souvenir. I bought a small ceramic piece depicting the gorge to hang in my travel corner; Kim bought some pretty green numbers made from porcelain to hang somewhere in her house. We later came across a statue of la Duquesa de Parcent in one of the parks, so she must have had some importance. I'm curious about her. Who was she? Another research project.



It was going on 8 p.m., so we headed for the bus terminal for the trip back. I'm so glad we went; it was worth the trouble getting there. Kim was great company, too! At around 10:30, the bus drove right through our town, so we asked the driver to let us off. That way we didn't have to go to the terminal in Torremolinos and take an expensive taxi cab ride back. We decided to stop somewhere for a beer before going back to the hotel and turning in for the night. No transnochando tonight!



The next morning we got up late because we weren't leaving until 12:30 to travel to Sevilla. The students had another shot at the beach, and they were very happy campers!