Burgos, Bilbao, San Sebastian -- It just keeps getting better!

Burgos is the birth and burial place of El Cid and home of the famous cathedral whose construction began in 1221. I was really expecting an austere town with arid surroundings. To my surprise it was verdant, complete with the Rio Duero flowing through it. Unfortunately it rained heavily which caught me off guard since I didn´t bring my raincoat. Our guide Carlota met us when we arrived and took us to La Cartuja, a Cartesian monestary on the outskirts of town. In fact, it was recently the subject of a documentary film called The Long Silence which illuistrates the life of the monks there who live their lives in silence as they go about their daily rituals. I heard about this film before the trip, but didn´t pay it any mind because there is no soundtrack. Now that I have visited the monastery, I will definitely see it when the DVD becomes available. I purchased a lovely rosary which has beads made from rose petals -- more than 3,000 for each necklace; the fragrance is absolutely intoxicating. Carlota took us through the monastery´s chapel with its immense golden altar. Carlota told us Columbus brought the gold from Latin America. It is truly a magnificent piece of work because of the intricate figures it contains of Christ and his disciples. After the monestary, we proceeded to the cathedral. I wondered, how could the inside of this church be any more spectacular than the monestary´s chapel? I was indeed mistaken. The cathedral was over the top!! The altar was even larger, and there were more treasures throughout the building. Carlota took us through room after room and carefully explained the contents, including the tomb of El Cid, one of the heroes of the Reconquest. Burgos part of one of the oriinal Christian kingdoms

The outside of the church is no less than spectacular with its gótico florecido style and ornate facade.

More to come on Burgos

Bilbao, Bilbao -- Como te has camibiao!!

Bilbao, a port further to the north in the Basque country has a new look. It has shed its industrial ambience for one that beckons tourism and culture. This was my first visit, and I must admit I was stunned by the city´s beauty. A lovely river walkway meanders throughout the center of the city. On both sides, old yet handsome stone buildings stand tall and stately. As recently as ten years ago, the city held little attraction for tourists and natives alike. The municipal government deserves much credit in doing a yeoman´s job in urban planning to make the city more pedestrian friendly and livable. An abundance of greenery and parks and a major facelift of the old city - el casco viejo - helped to make that a reality. San Antonio´s city council should take some cues from Bilbao.

More to come !

San Sebastian beginning to look like French Rivera

This lovely city on the Cantabrian Sea, has blown me away. It is indeed a jewel with its pristine beaches, old world style and even its own film festival which could one day rival the hoopla at Cannes. One the way to town, we had a brief discussion of liberal Spain in our text, and then met our guide Eduardo when we arrived. Upon meeting him, I pegged him as a superestrella of a guide. He was knowledgeable, charming, engaging and absolutely hilarious. He took us on a three hour walking tour of his beautifull city telling us amusing anectdotes all along the way while offering a list of do´s and don´ts during our brief stay. He has a lovely accent when speaking English, too. After our tour, we asked to stay longer here since our hotel was so far away, so instead of meeting at 5 :30 pm to return, we´re met up at 7:30 pm, our request was granted. Before Denise and I could get our students together for our internet blogging session, they had scattered. Several also did not know the bus would be leaving two hours later.

I decided to go off on my own to see the Royal Summer Palace Eduardo talked about, but unfortunately it was not open. I walked back towards the old city to call home since I hadn´t phoned for several days -- then I would be able to relax. As I strolled onto Calle Porto, I looked for a locutorio, where I could call the States, and I found one. Then suddenly, I heard people singing joyfully in the streets just a block up. I went to see what it was all about. I saw dozens of folks with song lyrics in their hands; they sang beautifully in key. When I asked about the singing, a woman told me this occurs the third Saturday of the month. Although they sang in their native Basque, I saw that everyone knew this from memory. It was evident the song was part of a common heritage and it sounded like a protest hymn. Briefly, it has to do with the Basque separation from the rest of Spain as they have always wanted since the beginning of Spain´s history. I reflected upon the spontaneity of this moment

I went to the locutorio to call home then checked out the Bar Aralar two doors down. I saw throngs of patrons eating, drinking and chattering, but what really caught my eye were the pinchos or appetizers Eduardo talked about. He highly recommended them and told us about the etiquette in ordering them. Bartenders put out dozens of trays filled with these delectible treats. I first ordered a locally brewed beer, Pagoa which had a wheaty nutlike taste -- muy sabrosa! I had a few sips, then decided to order some appetizers while keeping in mind how Eduardo told us to order. Ask the bartender for a plate; pick some out; show the plate to him and then pay. The selection was mesmerizing -- at least 20 different kinds, so colorful and adroitly stacked on the large serving plates. How I wished I could have sampled them all! My eyes were bigger than my stomach. I ordered pastry stuffed with salmon, a miniature baguette with tortilla española and sauteed green pepper, artichokes en vinaigrette, and roasted red pepper stuffed with tuna. I thought...voy a repetir la cerveza; esa me gusta. So I ordered another; then I saw the pastel de verduras and showed the bartender. The cost for the two beers and five pinchos was 15 euros or about $21 US ,but the eating experience, as those Mastercard advertisements state.....priceless and also inolvidable!

More to come on San Sebastian!